Fashion Features
Special times in forever clothes make cherished memories...
They say that to become an expert at something, there's a 10,000 hour rule that you have to fulfill and to practice for that length of time, (not all in one go of course!), to become an expert. From a very young age, Abi Nicoll has worked with fabric/clothing, making her own pieces and has now mastered the art of bespoke clothing design. So yes, without any question, you can very well say, she is an expert and has devoted a lifetime to her art form. And now, with twenty years in business under her belt, combined with high levels of quality control and customer care with her Blue Cat Clothing brand, she now has a range of stunning period themed Tweed garments to transport you back in time with a rather unique clothing range reminiscent of the 1940's, with elements from uniforms, like collars, pleats etc, but using colour opposite to uniforms, ie, orange for blue, red for green, some bright colours and possibly some different textures added like velvet prints for inserts and under collars and cuffs.
Abi designs bespoke, hand crafted garments and accessories for all known special occasions, giving her clients something very special and unique to wear and to treasure for years to come, and given the high quality materials she uses, she ensures her clientele enjoy, cherish and remember their special day, adorned with their new "especially for them", unique forever attire.
Based from the Albion Business Centre in Edinburgh, we caught up with Abi to find out more about her current vintage themed Tweed Collection and her clothing design journey.
Q: You've been involved in Fabric/Sewing/Making clothes all your life, from a very early age. Would you say its more of a calling. And are any other members of your family in the textile/fashion business, or have been before you ?
"I have always made clothes for as long as I can remember. I was taught by my mum, my aunt and my nan. Our household was very creative, mum was always spinning, dying wool or weaving or sewing. Skeins of beautiful naturally dyed wool hung from every hook possible in the kitchen to dry. Fabrics and colour, a constant source of discussion for my dad’s latest interior architecture project, model making was going on in the workshop or he was working on his vintage cars and motorbikes in the garage. So there was a constant hubbub of creative activity in the house which was very inspiring. My love of clothing, textiles and vintage was in my blood. The annual family trips to vintage yesteryear car rallies sparked my interest in the clothing from different eras too, there was always a costume and car parade which I loved. My Dad’s cars were 1930’s and 1950’s.
I discovered recently that my great great uncle was a fashion designer and silk merchant in the early 1900 and some of his fashion illustrations are in the V & A Museum in London which is very exciting."
Q: You've been in business now for 20 years, has it been quite a journey and what are the main differences in what you do, from back in the early days to what you do now?
"I started off just specialising in special occasion wear using fine silks, this is something I still work in, creating bespoke clothing for clients, but most of those tend to be for one day only. Now having branched out into day wear, it’s become much more of a long lasting multi worn statement piece for the wardrobe. I also have as little amount of waste possible by using the remnants for accessories like caps and berets."
Q: You design an array of bespoke options for your clientele. What's more important, quantity or quality ?
"Definitely the quality, the fabric has to be right for the clients style and fit, so that it feels sumptuous to wear, comfortable and bespoke."
Q: You offer design for specific purposes, Weddings etc - is it important to you that the end product is unique, something very special for your clients and the occasion ?
"It’s extremely important that the product is unique and bespoke. I always endeavour to make the client feel that their garments are one offs and that they will not find exactly the same anywhere else. This comes down to a choice of style, fabrics, colours and the one-to-one service I provide, building up a rapor with my clients is very important and also allows them to feel involved in the whole process of having something made for them."
Q: Do you specialise in designing vintage pieces from any given era ?
"I like to take my inspiration from the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s, but mix them up, use unpredictable colour combinations, use small vintage elements and combine them with modern fabrics. I also restore and repair vintage clothing and hope to offer this more as an alternative for clients who would like to carry on wearing a favourite piece."
Q: Your Tweed Collection designs are beautiful, what is it about working with tweed that inspires ?
"I used to wear oversized tweed coats when I was a student, raided from second-hand shops. If a garment wasn’t in any fit state to wear, I would unpick it and remake into another garment with a contemporary twist. I started off working with tweeds when I made a coat for myself and just loved the way it handled, so different from special occasion dress fabric. It drapes so well, manipulates into so many different shapes and it presses so flat, so I can achieve a professional finish very easily. I think also there had been a slight stigma with tweed that it was bit old fashioned a stuffy, a bit "outdoor pursuits", but harking back to the 1940’s, it was used so much in practical and stylish clothing, which inspires my designs."
Blue Cat Tweed Collection
Q: Why vintage styled design rather than contemporary fashion - Were you inspired as a child to make you want to focus more on bespoke/vintage rather than a more contemporary high street fashion ?
"Vintage style, for me in fashion, has pioneered the way forward for clothing style. Unfortunately, not all fabric is as good quality than it was back in the day, there’s a lot more waste and fabrics for many during those eras were scarce, so using fabrics skillfully to create a stylish wardrobe piece seems so much more long standing. Garments finished with large buttons, unusual collar shapes, hidden insertions are amongst the many detailing features that I love about vintage clothing. I have never been one for dressing fully in high street style, sometimes elements, but mixing them with a hint of vintage, whether it’s a coat, shoes or a hat. I enjoy wearing 50’s style loose high waist jeans, but then I’ll mix it up with a 40’s style cardi, contemporary boots and a beret."
Q: Quality is clearly important to your design goals, how do you source your fabrics and threads ?
"I source my fabrics from various places. I have suppliers which I have been working on a trade basis with for many years, this started again with special occasion wear and then I was able to apply to be on the trade lists for the tweed mills. I use a variety of local fabric shops too, each have their particular fabric strengths and there are a variety of fabric shops in town, each have their particular fabric strength, so I will use them depending on what is required for a garment they are great for locally sourced haberdashery too."
Q: Why do you do it - what is it about creating something for someone else to wear ?
"My mind is in constant overdrive, thinking of new creations, what next and planning, I thrive on being busy, I love it! The good feeling I get when someone walks away with a garment they have had bespoke made and the happiness it brings them, it’s a thrill! I hope that they will look after and wear the clothing for a long time to come."
Q: You also teach Dressmaking in Edinburgh, how did that opportunity arise ?
"I ended up teaching after a friend asked if I would help her master the sewing machine and learn to start making clothes for herself. This became a regular weekly class for a number of years, I built up my confidence, then had heard there was a vacancy for a tutor to run evening classes in a local community centre and it grew from there. For twelve years I have taught in a variety of settings, classes of ten for the City of Edinburgh Council, running dressmaking classes and workshops for a fabric shop in town both for beginners and more experienced sewers. During the last two years teaching large classes has been put on hold. I moved to a new studio and I am now able to start teaching on a one-to-one basis."
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Q: What's planned for 2022 - new collections, additions and/or designs ?
"This year I hope to build on my vintage style tweed collection, designing and making new coats, trousers and skirts. I also want to start branching out into menswear too. I have a commission coming up for pair of high waist 1940’s men's trousers, I am going to use this as a kick start for this part of my work. I am also planning more classes, looking for new venues and locations in Scotland to take my workshops.
I also hope to set up some classes to revamp, repair and restore vintage clothing and offer this an extra service to clients too. I have a late nineteenth century Chinese embroidered robe which is in a very damaged state and needs some long and careful, conservation and restoration, this is for a client who hopes to then display at in a case in her home. It’s a slightly daunting challenge, but I’m up for it!"
"I also want to start branching out into menswear too..."
"Blue" the cat (centre), the inspiration for Abi's business name, a great companion, sorely missed.